Meadowbrook Fairview Metropolitan District
2010 Water & Sewer Rates
Metered Water Usage:
Water consumption is billed per (1,000) thousand gallons of usage per bimonthly billing cycle.
$3.77 - 0 to 15,000 gallons,
$3.94 - 15,001 to 30,000 gallons,
$4.93 - 30,001 to 60,000 gallons,
$5.68 - exceeding 60,000 gallons
Base Water Charge:
$24.00 per bimonthly billing cycle
Base Wastewater Charge:
$30.00 per bimonthly billing cycle
Multi-Family and Commercial rates are based on single family equivalents (S.F.Es) thru a fixture unit count worksheet from the District.
Miscellaneous Charges:
Post Water Shut-Off Notice: $25.00
Suspension Water Service: $25.00
Water Turn On: $25.00
Returned Check Charge: $30.00
Final Bills and Transfer of Service: $25.00
If Water Service is interrupted
There can be several reasons why water service can be interrupted such as a delinquent bill causing shut off of water from our office; District crews are in the area flushing hydrants, repairing main breaks, installing new pipes, etc. This might cause a slight difference in taste or odor of the water once turned back on. Please note that the water is perfectly safe to drink.
Leaks?
If you cannot determine the source of the leak, please call the District Office. We will send someone out to help you. The majority of leaks are found either in the toilet tank or sprinkler system.
If you have a leak, you are still responsible for the water use as a result of the leak. The District is respsonsible for supplyng water to your meter. After the meter, the property owner is responsible for all wate use devices and water loss. Meadowbrook Water is billed by Denver Water through master meters and must pay for all water that passes through these meters. Please call the District Office if you need to make payment arrangments.
Repair...a Leaky Toilet
It's not always easy to tell if your toilet is leaking. To check for a slow leak, add some food coloring or dye tablets to the water in the tank and wait thirty minutes.
If the color seeps into the toilet bowl, you have a leak. To repair the leak, follow these
steps.
 |
Step 1:
Remove the tank lid and check the float arm. Reach in and lift it up. If the water stops running, you've found the problem. Adjust the screws or bolts to the inlet float valve until the water stops flowing.
Step 2:
If the toilet continues to leak, turn off the water supply valve to the tank, and flush the toilet to drain out the water. Examine the inlet float valve by removing the two screws or bolts and lifting the top of the valve housing out. Check the diaphragm. If it is even slightly damaged or worn, replace it.
Step 3:
If the toilet periodically refills without flushing, examine the ball stopper or flapper valve. It should fit flush in its seat. If not, look at the lever and guide rods that operate the ball stopper. If they are crooked, gently straighten them. For toilets having a chain pull attached to the flapper valve, make sure the chain is slack when the valve is seated to insure a snug fit. If the ball or flapper valve itself is worn out, replace it. Check for corrosion or deposits on the seat and the ball stopper or flapper valve. Use steel wool to remove this buildup.
Step 4:
Inspect the small refill tube that connects the fill valve to the refill-overflow tube to be sure the smaller tube ends slightly above the standing water level of the completely filled tank. If necessary, gently pull the small tube upward until its end is correctly placed.
Step 5:
If the toilet is still leaking, you may have a problem fill valve. In this case a steady trickle of water will run constantly, flowing into the overflow tube in the toilet tank. If the water level in the tank is right up to the very top of the overflow tube, then you probably have a fill valve problem. First try to adjust the float level so the water stops flowing before reaching the overflow level.
Step 6:
If this doesn't stop the leak, replace the fill valve. Shut off the water supply to the toilet and flush to empty the tank. Sponge the final few cups of water from the bottom of the tank. Disconnect the supply line,and remove the nut on the bottom of the tank to remove the old fill valve assembly. Install a new fill valve assembly and reattach the supply line. Finally, attach the fill tube hose to the overflow tube. Turn the water back on, and adjust the float so that the water shuts off about one inch below the top of the overflow tube.
Note: If your toilet has a Fluidmaster valve instead of a float arm, check the Fluidmaster web site (http://www.fluidmaster.com/ for more information.
Prepare your pipes for the frosty forecast
The District shall not be responsible for the thawing of frozen service pipes or appurtenances from the meter pit to your structure. When the forecast is calling for snow and cold temperatures, here are a few tips to help save you headaches and money:
1. Since you won't need to water your grass, now is the time to winterize your sprinkler system. This will help prevent leaks in your sprinkler lines and equipment, and avoid costly repairs and wasted water in the spring. Water expands when it freezes, so if there is still water in your sprinkler system, you are at risk of getting broken lines and equipment. Also make sure to disconnect and drain all garden hoses.
2. To keep pipes from freezing, the District recommends the following:
- Keep open cabinet doors leading to exposed pipes (such as access doors to sinks), so that household air can warm them. The natural flow of warmer air will help combat many problems.
-If you have an attached garage, keep its doors shut. Occasionally, plumbing is routed through this unheated space, leaving it vulnerable to winter's worst.
-Crack a faucet farthest from the place where your water enters the house. A very slow drip will keep water molecules moving, reducing the chance that pipes will freeze. Place a bucket underneath the faucet so the water can be saved for other household uses.
- Keep your thermostat set above 65 degrees when leaving the house or business for several days.
-Insulate pipes that may be vulnerable to the cold or have caused problems before. Pipes close to exterior walls or in unheated basements or crawlspace can be wrapped with pieces of insulation. Don't overlook pipes near windows, which can freeze quickly. For paretically difficult pipes, consult a professional on how to select and apply heat tape.
- Know the location of your water shut-off valve and test it regularly. If a pipe breaks, you won't want to have to find it then or, worse, wait for someone to arrive at your place to find it for you. In most single-family homes, the shut-off valve is in the basement or the crawlspace, on a wall facing the street.
3. If you think a pipe has already frozen, do the following:
- Don't wait for nature to take it's course. Thaw the pipe as soon as possible or call a plumber for help.
- If you do it yourself, shut off the water or test the shut off valve. You don't want water suddenly gushing from the pipe when it thaws.
- Remember: When thawing things, slower is better.
- A hair dryer trained at the the frozen area of the pipe is appropriate. A blow torch is not!
1. The coldest cold water faucet has to be opened.
2. A blow dryer should be used on low and about 16" to 24" away from the water line. Do not do this for long periods of time. Pipes warmed too fast may break anyway!
1. Since you won't need to water your grass, now is the time to winterize your sprinkler system. This will help prevent leaks in your sprinkler lines and equipment, and avoid costly repairs and wasted water in the spring. Water expands when it freezes, so if there is still water in your sprinkler system, you are at risk of getting broken lines and equipment. Also make sure to disconnect and drain all garden hoses.
2. To keep pipes from freezing, the District recommends the following:
- Keep open cabinet doors leading to exposed pipes (such as access doors to sinks), so that household air can warm them. The natural flow of warmer air will help combat many problems.
-If you have an attached garage, keep its doors shut. Occasionally, plumbing is routed through this unheated space, leaving it vulnerable to winter's worst.
-Crack a faucet farthest from the place where your water enters the house. A very slow drip will keep water molecules moving, reducing the chance that pipes will freeze. Place a bucket underneath the faucet so the water can be saved for other household uses.
- Keep your thermostat set above 65 degrees when leaving the house or business for several days.
-Insulate pipes that may be vulnerable to the cold or have caused problems before. Pipes close to exterior walls or in unheated basements or crawlspace can be wrapped with pieces of insulation. Don't overlook pipes near windows, which can freeze quickly. For paretically difficult pipes, consult a professional on how to select and apply heat tape.
- Know the location of your water shut-off valve and test it regularly. If a pipe breaks, you won't want to have to find it then or, worse, wait for someone to arrive at your place to find it for you. In most single-family homes, the shut-off valve is in the basement or the crawlspace, on a wall facing the street.
3. If you think a pipe has already frozen, do the following:
- Don't wait for nature to take it's course. Thaw the pipe as soon as possible or call a plumber for help.
- If you do it yourself, shut off the water or test the shut off valve. You don't want water suddenly gushing from the pipe when it thaws.
- Remember: When thawing things, slower is better.
- A hair dryer trained at the the frozen area of the pipe is appropriate. A blow torch is not!
1. The coldest cold water faucet has to be opened.
2. A blow dryer should be used on low and about 16" to 24" away from the water line. Do not do this for long periods of time. Pipes warmed too fast may break anyway!
